French prusik vs klemheist which is better. I'm thinking the rope had a lot to do with it.

French prusik vs klemheist which is better. The resulting friction knot loop can then slide up the rope but grips when subjected to load. Learn about their features, pros and cons, and the best situations to use each one. Let’s learn it in detail. Leap your second prusik over the hindering knot and attach a 120cm sling that is attached to the belay to the second prusik (often a klemheist). Feb 3, 2017 · Similar knots are the Autoblock aka French Prusik and the Klemheist Inevitably there is some debate about their relative merits but both are defintely a bit easier to tie than the prusik. The loop is wrapped around the climbing rope and tied with a locking knot. Aug 23, 2019 · As a suitable alternate, a Klemheist was suggested and I did some online research of tying the knot as well as 6mm accessory cord. Another reason it makes more sense to have your friction device on the other side is because when one falls, it’s the usual reflex to grab on the rope. The Prusik knot and Klemheist knot for a rappel backup are both great choices, but there are some key differences to consider. It also appears to be identical to the knot described by Ashley for securing a loop to a vertical pole. Jul 20, 2024 · The Klemheist is one of three friction hitches every climber ought to know. The difference with the Klemheist (also called "Machard", or "French Prusik") compared to the normal Prusik is that it can be moved once weighted and will work with webbing as well as cord. . That simply means it is harder to move upward on a lifeline or to snug a linemans rope on a Feb 22, 2020 · So I tested today and found out why I like the French prusik better than the klemheist. However, a utility Dec 6, 2023 · I would suggest a standard 3-wrap prusik with tender (I do not have trouble tending like you described) or a Klemheist. (I'm very new to saddle hunting. Slide this prusik as far forward as possible so it is tight with the belay. The klemheist is In which case, the main reason for not useing a classic Prusic knot is it is very difficult to release under load whereas a french Prusik is easier to release. This does not seem to be what I find, mostly online the Machard is used as a synonym to the Klemheist. 5mm and 12. > Or on the 4th type, which I've heard referred to as the best for abbing but with no explanation as to why. Prusik is generally safer and easier to use. Fig1 Prusik knot, French knot, Klemheist knot 2. The 4th type you refer to seems also to be a french prusik to me, it just has one end captive. As nearly as I can tell, the French Prusik Autoblock the OP asked about is the most common used as a third hand on a rappel. The knot must be tied with a rope of diameter less than the main rope, as the effectiveness of the knot is reduced the closer the two ropes are in size. Typical grab knots force tests In order to better match the actual firefighting situation, this paper uses the tensile testing machine which is shown in Figure 2, to carry out the force test which are designed for different grab knots, different diameter ropes. Dec 17, 2015 · This article comparing prussik, klemheist, autobloc and bachmann may be of interest. SRT single rope technique using a kle. Nov 18, 2016 · As tracker said a prusik is not unidirectional so it doesn't matter what way it's loaded. I personally don't particularly care for a klemheist but prefer a distel hitch on an eye2eye. Karl Prusik, benannt. It can also be tied with a loop of webbing, unlike the other friction hitches which must be tied with round rope. e. So, to be clear, by "friction knot" I mean: French Prusik (autoblock), Bachman Knot, Heddon Knot, Klemheist knot, FB-sling friction knot, Prusik knot, etc. Tying the French Prussik Knot Our latest instructional video is all about tying the French Prussik knot. It’s easier to slide than the Distel Hitch but doesn’t provide as good grip. Follow these steps to tie a Klemheist: Step 1: Simply wrap a loop of cord around the rope several times. Alpine Butterfly vs. Thank you for your insights. A paracord Klemheist on a paracord line doesn't hold well for me at all. Oct 6, 2015 · French Prusik with two turns French Prusik with three turns & clip into your carabinner. more May 15, 2025 · The Autoblock knot, also called French Prusik knot, is a friction hitch used as a backup when rappelling. One major difference is that the prusik knot is bi-directional, meaning it will grip when pulled in either direction. In this head-to-head knot showdown, we compare the Prusik Knot and the Klemheist Knot to see which one provides better grip, adjustability, and overall perfo The rule supposedly is that you want a friction hitch to be 3mm smaller than the diameter of rope you are trying to grab and to use 3 wraps. I suspect you immediately think "Prusik". The Klemheist Knot is tied by making a Prusik Loop with line or rope that is no more than 1/2 the diameter of the main, static rope. The Klemheist is easier to slide up than a Prusik. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. Yes, thinner cord will lock up easier, and also be harder to unjam. Create a loop by tying both ends of a cord together with a double fisherman’s knot. The Prusiks Prusiks are a friction hitch or knot used to attach a loop of cord around a rope. Jun 21, 2024 · The Autoblock knot is also known as the French Prusik knot. (Not the same as a klemheist. Klemheist (French Prusik) Description The klemheist is a slide and grip knot. Another variation is the Autoblock or French Prusik, used by some people as a Dec 15, 2023 · It’s similar in strength and ease of use, only doesn’t require a carabiner. It works like the classic Prusik Knot —it slides up and down the rope when no load is applied and locks when the load is applied. This will leave you with what we refer to as a 4-wrap prusik. This video is part of Midwest Mountain Guides rock climbing informational series. It is very easy to tie, inspect, and untie. [1][2][3] More Sep 3, 2018 · Make sure the prusik (It’s going to have to be a “french” for the next stage) bites and takes the weight of your buddy. But Klemheist can be more useful when a smaller diameter rope is needed. ) This was really good information for me so I thought I'd share. French prussik - an autobloc, can be released while under load - so usefull for backing up an abseil and self rescue scenarios. What is a French Prusik knot? The French prusik, or autoblock, is another in the family of slide-and-grip knots that includes the standard Prusik knot and the Klemheist. Is there a better knot? I was also considering using a Prusik (or similar knot) for an adjustable bridge to play around with different lengths before I settle on permantely tying a bridge on. The Prusik knot and Klemheist knot for a rappel backup are both great choices, but there are some key differences to consider. This can be useful, although it also makes the knot more susceptible to slipping than the other ones. Breaking strength isn't really a consideration in a scenario where you would be using prusiks, since even 6 mm has a breaking strength of >7 kN, and prusiks are generally used in domains way under that. Autoblock has lesser degree of friction, but sufficient enough to act as a brake backup for a rappel, and is the simplest and the quickest to setup for a rappel. Jun 6, 2016 · In reply to MttSnr: Autoblock / French Prusik. Unlike bi-directional hitches like the Prusik, the Klemheist grips firmly in one direction while sliding easily in the opposite direction, making it ideal for both nylon and static ropes. It is generally recommended that the diameter of your prusik cord be 70% of the rope diameter, and no less than 50%. It grips under load and releases even when loaded. Sometimes I carry a prusik loop so that I can tie a traditional prusik or klemheist if need be. Much easier to release if you need to stop and sort ropes etc, though conversely doesn't bite as well and slips at a lower load (still much higher than anything you should see on abseil!). For an autoblock to work, the rope/sling must be flexible enough to wrap tightly around the rappel rope, and it must be short enough that it does not slide up the rope and interfere with the rappel device. A paracord Prusik on a paracord line holds just fine. Like a Prusik knot, it slides easily on a rope. This type of 4 wrap prusik is the basis of most other hitch knots including the klemheist knot, distel hitch, and the scwabisch prusik. If you really want to protect the "route", and having tried most friction knots on the cables, my recommendation is the sling-based FB (aka Franz Bachmann) Friction Knot/Hitch (similar to a Klemheist but with a sling). A klemheist is in a slightly seperate category because it is better if you are useing a sling rather than a loop of cord. Mar 9, 2023 · Klemheist Knot (also called "Machard", or "French Prusik") Klemheist knot is a type of friction hitch that uses a piece of looped cord or webbing to tie to a length of rope. Any advice? Is the article bad? Should I go about this a different way? Share Add a Comment Be the first to comment Nobody's responded to this post yet. Farrimond Friction Hitch vs. Aug 28, 2011 · I carry prusik cord so that I can tie one if the need arisesusually it is an eye-spliced cord with a utility biner (steel) and a micropulley for forwarding (I almost always use the french prusik or VT/MT). Aug 19, 2019 · I’ve always used a Prusik knot on my tether to clip into my bridge. Less faff than the standard prusik to tie / dress correctly. Several people have died from this. It is used similarly to a Prusik knot or the Bachmann knot to ascend or descend a climbing rope. All three have their pros and cons. Der Knoten dient zum Klemmen und Fe 09-22-2010, 08:01 slvravn Prusik vs. Klemheist Knots The Prusik knot and Klemheist knot are two friction hitch knots that essentially do the same job: to grip a rope in an autoblock system. I may try it again with this new rope but not seeing the need to. The prusik loop or prusik rapp The Prusik Knot The good old prusik knot is very, very useful. A prusik tightens in both directions, so it is better in some rock climbing or mountaineering applications, but that isn't the application with a saddle or even a lifeline. Cons: Less reliable for heavy loads or climbing compared to the Prusik Knot. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The article differentiates them. This variation of the Prusik knot’s most important attribute is it’s ability to be released under load. Oct 7, 2019 · Klemheist should work fine, but the reason a prusik is used more often is because it’s omnidirectional, Autoblock is also omnidirectional, whereas the Klemheist is more unidirectional. We did a bunch May 1, 2020 · The term Prusik knot or Autoblock is often used to generalise a number of different friction hitches that we use regularly in climbing. What would be the best diameter, 6mm or 7mm? I know it has to be skinnier than the rope your are wrapping it around, but by how much? Also do you prefer creating your own prusik with or buying one of those sewn ones? Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Feb 21, 2024 · It’s often used over a Prusik or a Klemheist Knot because the carabiner acts as a handle, which allows for easier sliding along the main rope. In a climbing situation, the climber ties into the carabiner. It’s used in climbing, caving, mountaineering, and rescue work to ascend and descend a rope. Jul 31, 2014 · No description has been added to this video. ) You have your terminology a bit mixed up. This knot is also called an English prusik and a French prusik. A narrow nylon sling is better than dyneema (spectra). Also, for a third hand/rappel backup the French Prusik/Autoblock, Klemheist and FB knot are all better options (IMO) and can all be tied with either webbing or cord. Wrap the loop around the rope 3–5 times. The Klemheist, or Machard Knot, is a derivative of the original Prusik knot. I will probably play with an actual VT prusik above my belay device, but I’m comfortable as is, so I’m not doing that soon. Another variation is the autoblock or French Prusik, used by some people as a backup knot while rappelling. It could also be that prusik is just a generic term that arborist and some of us use to refer to the friction hitch portion of our rig. Is there a correct placement Feb 22, 2020 · One of the best ways to reduce the likelihood of a rappelling-related incident is to use a rappel backup, such as the prusik, autoblock, or klemheist. A Cons: More complex to tie and adjust than the Prusik Knot. It also doesn’t need a carabiner to work. 2. The main difference between the French prusik and the other ones is that the French prusik can be moved while weighted. With the Klemheist, too many wraps around the main line will bind the knot and not allow it to function. All friction hitches are based on the simple Prussik, and many friction… Der Klemheist-Knoten wurde nach seinem Erfinder, dem österreichischen Bergsteiger und Ingenieur Dr. Suffice it to say it's worth learning this gem of a knot. The Classic Prusik Knot is primarily used for ascending ropes, although it can also be used for descending. Slide and grip knot intended for a load in one direction only. Bunch of great comments here! Sep 17, 2020 · I do not use mine (VT Prusik) for anything but an autoblock while rappelling. Nov 11, 2023 · But if used correctly, the Klemheist Knot is better in some situations because it’s much easier to slide when no weight is applied. Most of these knots are tied by threading a prusik loop around the main rope. Is the Klemheist Knot better than the Prusik Knot? The Klemheist slides more easily, while the Prusik grips bi-directionally, making them suited for different scenarios. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shows the prussik, kleimheist, and auto block hitches and the differences in how they grab and release. Does the tender make much of a difference? How to Tie a Prusik Knot You will have to make the cord loop with a double fisherman’s knot or a triple fisherman’s knot before starting off with the tying procedure. I can't think of a situation where the original prusik is the best knot to use. Other names Autoblock knot, French Prusik knot Tying 1. Prusik Knot Pros: Excellent for adjustable tensioning, particularly on taut lines. Aug 11, 2017 · I find that the 34cm length works best for a traditional prussic, the 48cm length is better for a french prusik or klemheist. The two main alternatives are the Bachmann knot and the Klemheist knot (see also the Tarbuck knot). Can You Use Dyneema As A Prusik? You can use Dyneema as a material to make Prusik ropes. (The other two are the prusik and the autoblock, aka French prusik, or Machard. French Prusik Knot: The French Prusik Knot is similar to the Classic Prusik Knot, but it is tied with a loop of cord instead of two separate loops. It is okay for the return trip since I only have to remove the slack once. Sep 6, 2021 · Prusik vs. I think you will find it MUCH easier than using a "usual" Prusik. Though different factors govern the length of the cord including its diameter and the height of the person using it, you can use 1. Klemheist Knot: Another slide-and-grip knot that’s very similar to the French Prusik and also works only in one direction. Quick Tying Guide: Autoblock Knot To tie an autoblock knot, wrap the hitch cord around the rappel ropes four to five times. How do I ensure the Klemheist Knot won’t slip? Use a loop with a smaller diameter than the static rope and add additional wraps if needed. 5 m length of a 5 mm cord on most of the thicker varieties of ropes. Also, if you have any extra weight, say a haul baq or an injured partner, releasing the pruisk could be extremely difficult. Aug 23, 2023 · Autoblock (French) Prusik: In this variation of the Prusik Knot, the bight is wrapped around the static rope from bottom to top, like the Klemheist Knot. The autoblock knot (also known as the Machard knot or French prusik knot, but that confuses it with the klemheist knot) slips more easily when accidentally touched even when loaded, and is intended to add more friction to a descender, not to be trusted for prusiking. They’re both easy to tie and the Klemheist unloads pretty easily, especially with a tender. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, mainly in how easy they are to use for climbing a rope. Tying a Prusik’s Loop To tie the Bachmann Hitch Knot, you’ll need a Prusik’s Loop and a carabiner. - If using prusiks in conditions where they might fail (e. Jun 17, 2009 · The Knot of the Week continues with our climbing knots mini-series, and the French Prusik Knot. 100K subscribers in the Yosemite community. Use up most of the cord during your wraps to create friction. heist knot and French prusik to ascend and descend a rope with a foot loop and Clove Hitch for backup. More casually, the term is used for any friction hitch or device that can grab a rope. g; prusiking up a wet or icy rope), it’s better to use two different types of friction hitch (and a full strength back-up, of course). 3. The term Prusik is a name for both the loops of cord and the hitch, and the verb is “to prusik”. This makes it work only in one direction but with a better performance. Sep 18, 2018 · It literally took less time than undoing the prusik and tying a klemheist. My order of Sterling prusik cord arrived this afternoon from Ropes. It seems to me that the auto block grips better and holds the load as well as the prusik would, but I When rappelling and using an autoblock consisting of a french prusik knot it seems there may be some options on how and where to attach the autoblock to my harness. There are Feb 15, 2023 · Discover the difference between Autoblock and Prusik knots for climbing. As a result, it is better used as Jul 10, 2025 · The Prusik knot is a friction hitch tied with a small diameter cord called the Prusik cord, which wraps around the main rope to add friction. The Klemheist is best located at the load end of your system closer to your load (pinned kayak or raft) as it is hard to work with a Prusik minding pulley. Things to note: - Coil Upwards (otherwise it would not work)- It is a top prusik backup- To release, push the “tongue” Nov 3, 2019 · Distel with a tender seems to be a popular choice. The wraps make it a pain to remove slack. By using a backup, you effectively create a ‘third hand’ on the rope using a sling in the form of a friction hitch, which can act as an extra measure of security should you accidentally let Sep 6, 2017 · Autoblock: Also known as French Prusik, or Machard Tresse, is similar to Klemheist, but the ends of the wrapped loop are simply clipped into a carabiner. A friction hitch is a knot used in climbing to attach one rope to another or a carabiner. As you might imagine, it would be easy to grab on the Prusik/Klemheist/etc as this happens and would make for a hard time actually squeezing on the rope properly. May 15, 2025 · The Klemheist Knot is a slide and grip knot that is used to ascend or descend a rope. Jan 19, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Looking to buy some cord for a prusik. We suggest the Classic Prussik, French Prussik and Klemheist are the three friction knots every climber should know. Usage The Klemheist is a directional friction hitch primarily used in climbing and rescue operations for ascending or descending a rope. Start off as for the French prusik but after 4-6 wraps feed the long end up through the short end and pull down to tighten. Advantages The klemheist is easier to slide up than the prusik. We have other videos demonstrating the Klemheist here and Classic Prussik here. Like the standard Prusik Knot, the French Prusik Knot is a friction hitch, which works by gripping the rope and providing friction to support a climbers weight. Uses Related hitches and equipment Although prusik can be used in a general way, the Prusik hitch is a specific hitch. As such, you can create an autoblock system with the autoblock knot, a Klemheist (French Prusik), or a Valdotain Tresse. It was designed for (European) via ferratas, works very well on cables (Half-dome included), is easy to tie/untie/adjust, friction I actually prefer the french prusik and klemheist to this hitch. With the French prusik, I keep one end of the hollow block loop connected to the biner the entire time I'm in the tree and the biner is connected to my linesman loop. While I might use a "prusik cord" to tie a friction knot, the knot specifically called a "Prusik" would likely be my last choice to ascend a rope. Oct 9, 2019 · Not all the prusik knots work with tape slings but the klemheist is pretty good, so if you haven’t invested in prusiks yet learn this one. Like the standard Prusik, the Klemheist Knot is a friction hitch, which works by gripping the rope and providing friction to support a climbers weight. Clip both ends into a locking carabiner. Kleimheist - different from above, hard/impossible to release under load. the Klemheist knot is a popular knot used by rock climbers. I also use this for my foot sling while ascending a rope. One thing I've discovered, however, is the line you use for a Klemheist needs to be smaller than the line you are attaching to. 5mm as main ropes, 6mm, 7mm and 8mm as auxiliary ropes and related equipments in You are using what climbers call a classic prusik (ie the original prusik knot) but there is also the French prusik and another prusik type knot called the Kleimheist. Sep 17, 2002 · Surely the french prusik (autobloc) or klemheist have outplayed and out manouvered it. Also if you panic while rapping with a prusik your hand will grip the prusik tighter. The term Prusik is a name for both the loops of cord used to tie the hitch and the hitch itself, and the verb is "to prusik" or "prusiking" (i. Although Prusik can be used in a general way, the Prusik hitch is a specific hitch. com and I am getting ready to cut, tie a double fishermans and then test the Klemheist on my linemans. AMGA Instructor Team Member Patrick Ormond explains how to tie the auto-block, prusik and Klemheist friction hitches. Klemheist Knot. Disclaimer: I'm n A french prusik and an autobloc are the same thing. Auto Block (Klemheist) on Continuous Ridgeline I was making a continuous ridgeline last night using masons line and was wondering weather the prusik had any advantages over the auto block or vice-versa for use as the auto-adjustment loops on the ridgeline. For almost all of the other situations, you can already carry the cord pre-tied into a loop, or use a sewn sling. With one or two prusiks you can ascend a rope, or rig a z-pulley to haul up an injured climber, or backup an abseil (“abseil” is aka “rappel”). If you need to move quickly up a rope, then the Klemheist Knot is the preferred choice over a Prusik Knot. But, it only grips in a single direction. Prusik Knot Pros: Creates a secure, load-bearing loop in the middle of a rope. It is easy to tie, and is reliably secure when the loop is loaded and can be adjusted when the loop isn't loaded. Apr 29, 2023 · The prusik and klemheist are both friction hitches. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket © 2024 Google LLC One of these, the Klemheist or French Prusik knot, is the one I prefer as it is unlikely to jam, is simple to tie and is easy to use when ascending or descending the halyard. The klemheist knot (also confusingly known as the French Machard knot, despite not being French, and not being created by Serge Machard) is often used, and the classic Prusik knot is still regularly recommended, in spite of its problems. I'm thinking the rope had a lot to do with it. The Ashley Book of Knots #505. For more detailed information, go to www Aug 28, 2012 · One of these, called the Klemheist or French Prusik knot, is the one I prefer, as it is less likely to jam, is easier to tie and is easier to use when descending the halyard. I use a prusik with a tender but it sounds like you want to get away from the classic prusik. They are utilised in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, rope rescue and zip-lining. MMG will demonstrate how to tie a Prusik, Klemheist and Autoblock. – Since the autoblock cord is under friction regularly check it for wear and tear. I didn't seem to function well. A Prusik (/ ˈprʌsɪk / PRUSS-ik) is a friction hitch or knot used to attach a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, ziplining, and by arborists. Klemheist. Then, use a locking carabiner from your harness leg loop, clip both ends, and lock the carabiner. ) Friction hitches are used typically used as a rope grab in a mechanical advantage haul system, and as a tool for emergency rope ascending. This will not allow the prusik to grab the rope and your rappel will continue unabated. My experiments with a Prusik show that it does not need that requirement. [1] The term autoblock is also used for a specific type of friction hitch, [5][2][6] which is also known as a French prusik or Machard knot, named after its inventor, Serge Machard. All you need is a loop of cord which you can make using 6 or 7mm accessory cord and a double fisherman's knot. Meanwhile, the Klemheist knot uses a single rope tied into a loop. Used in: Ascending a Oct 14, 2021 · I found this video while trying to figure out what type of rope I should use for my prusik/autoblock knot. using a Prusik to ascend). FYI, there are many friction knots: Prusik, Hedden, Klemheist, Bachman, FB-Sling friction knot, French Prusik (Autoblock), Penberthy and several others. Oct 2, 2015 · However to keep my friction hitch (a French prusik now but had been using a standard prusik before) from locking up, I have been wrapping the rope around the long side of the carabiner for added friction. Aug 1, 2021 · This article introduces typical grab knots such as Prusik knot, French knot, Klemheist knot and uses 10. The HollowBlock works great for a wide range of rope sizes but can be a little less predictable than a cord. 2 -1. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk Jan 9, 2025 · Arborists can act like Batman and quickly ascend and descend ropes using a friction hitch. Cheers! Stu The klemheist knot or French Machard knot is a type of friction hitch that grips the rope when weight is applied, and is free to move when the weight is released. This can be very handy in certain situations. Klemheist bites best in one direction and gets undressed in the other direction, so it could make on-the-fly bridge adjustments a bit messy in one direction. It is tied with a loop of rope or webbing. Nov 17, 2015 · Compared to the Prusik, Klemheist etc I see one major disadvantage: You need an open cord. It does grip in both directions when weighted which may or may not be beneficial for your pa The Prusik knot uses a circle of rope wrapped around it. I had a klemheist before the prusik with different rope. [7][8] Other friction hitches that can be used to build an autoblock system include the Prusik knot, Klemheist knot, and Bachmann knot. C: The Klemheist Knot The Klemheist is a variation of the French Prusik and can be tied with webbing too. The Prusik’s loop should be made from a cord that’s 1/2 in diameter of the main rope. I use a French prusik because it does not get overly tight. Both knots excel at simplicity in design and ease of tying but have some drawbacks compared to more elaborate friction hitches. Jun 22, 2009 · This week we focus on the Klemheist Knot, another relative of the Prusik Knot. Dec 11, 2023 · There are videos on prusik vs Klemheist where the merits of each are explained. Oct 3, 2010 · Yes, I've been debating Prusik vs. James G May 8, 2018 · Klemheist Knot The Klemheist knot is a friction knot that is used for ascending a rope and for self-rescue when a climber needs to escape a belay. With the French Prusik too many The French prusik, or autoblock, is another in the family of slide-and-grip knots that includes the standard Prusik knot and the Klemheist. I will try to remember to take a picture later of how short it ends up. Don’t use a sling for anything except a prusik after using it once as a prusik. One advantage is that webbing can be used as an alternative to cord. ucyb sicebnz xneuf rulauwpx fphapee qlcd wds ehb afonm gggdp